Palazzo Gamba

Naked like Michelangelo�s David or rugged up in the latest winter fashion by their own world-class designers, Florentines and their city never fail to impress. Already in need of oxygen after admiring their art, visitors are mesmerised by the vision of locals at aperitivo time, effortlessly strutting, flirting and evidently enjoying life. At times it seems nothing much has changed since the days of the Medici.

Of course much has changed. Florence�s short-lived stint as capital of Italy in 1865 was like a shot of adrenaline. The city bulldozed, constructed, rearranged avenues, wiped out whole quarters and tore down the medieval walls. And so the scene was set for the modern regional capital of Tuscany. Along the broad viali (avenues) that encircle old Florence a confusion of endless traffic tears around in chaotic style. Horns honk and brakes squeal as Florentines dart in and out of lanes in search of a break in the traffic. Ignorant of fear, motorini (moped) riders dash in and around larger vehicles, as if protected by some divine force.

The jewel of Renaissance Italy remains essentially what it was � a busy business centre. Even before the Renaissance was over, the wily Florentines had to concede that their town was on the wane, increasingly ignored on the European stage. But they never forgot their proud heritage and it was rediscovered in earnest by the rest of Europe from the late 18th century. Curious and admiring travellers, particularly the English, descended on the city as part of their Grand Tour. Ever canny with currency (after all, Florentines invented the florin, one of the most successful currencies in history), the locals knew how to cash in, as they still do, with utter aplomb.

The fortunate few get their first glimpse of Florence from the south. The road from rival Siena leads you to the heights backing the south bank of the Arno. Suddenly, through the trees, the glories of Florence burst into view � Giotto�s Campanile (bell tower), Brunelleschi�s dome, the Basilica di Santa Croce. Only the hardest of hearts can remain unaffected.